I Guess Facebook Killed This Blog

Oh well.

But here is my annual playlist for 2014. And also 2013. I forgot to post that one. Going through my files I don't see any notes regarding the 2013 playlist. Sigh. Maybe they're on my work laptop. But you can read about why I chose the 2014 tracks. Huzzah.

Two notes.

First. Zach Gilson was one of my graduate students. He passed away suddenly on September 27, 2014 of a pulmonary embolism. He left behind a wife and two small children. His image makes up the artwork of this compilation, which is dedicated to his memory.

Second. If this year’s list has a theme, it can be summed up in one word: “haunting.” Many of these melodies have haunted me over the past year, as I explain in my comments below.

1. If I Had a Heart [Fever Ray]

I first heard this song when watching Vikings, but it turns out that’s not entirely correct. I actually first heard it on Breaking Bad in the episode “Open House” (S03E04). And then it shows up in the movie Horns. This song pursues me.

2. Little Maggie [Robert Plant]

Robert Plant’s ultimate reluctance (read: outright refusal) to reform Led Zeppelin for a victory lap nostalgia tour surprised many, principally his former band mates, especially after entertaining the possibility in interviews. I admit, I would love to see the Might Zep in concert but at least we have the one-off Celebration Day DVD.

Robert Plant’s solo work since Fate of Nations has consistently intrigued me. On this particular song, I love how the plaintive vocals sit on top of the syncopated drums, stringed instruments, and pulsing keyboards. 

3. Fake Fur Coat [Tweedy]

Jeff Tweedy recorded Sukierae with his son, Spencer, on drums. And as awesome as some of those collaborations are, I believe this bare bones Americana is the most well written song on the album. The last verse, in particular, is poetry:

Behold the gift of a distant sun 
The canyons full of loose bones 
The metals and brambles and the jack bitch boss 
Thundering down from his thrown

4. Cut-String Kite [Fictionist]

I first started listening to Fictionist shortly after moving back to Utah five years ago. I didn’t see them live, which I regret, until they participated in a contest with Rolling Stone magazine. Since that time I have become friends with several of the band members, particularly the two guitar players. I was honored when they invited me to attend an exclusive party for friends and family to celebrate the release of their eponymous album. I try to see them perform as often as my schedule permits.

There is so much I love about this song and this album.

5. Kesenai Tsumi [Nana Kitade]

I watched several episodes of the anime series Full Metal Alchemist. While I liked it, the closing theme song quickly turned into an earworm that burrowed into my brain. I have no idea what the Japanese lyrics say, although I’m sure I could find a translation online, but I don’t care. One of my guilty pleasures is an unabashed love of catchy pop-rock tunes. This definitely fits into that category.

6. I’m Losing You [John Lennon]

One of the things I love about much of Lennon’s solo work is the tight rhythm section. As much as I enjoy Macca’s melodic bass playing in The Beatles, sometimes what a song needs is a bass line that doesn’t vary from the root notes.

7. Volcano [U2]

I was pleasantly surprised to find a new U2 album in iTunes and for free. But I can also understand the consternation of others. Let’s suppose I woke up one morning to find a free Jay-Z album in my library. I would probably see it as a form of junk mail. Unsolicited and unwanted.

I spent about two weeks digesting the album, listening to little else. This song stood out early on and has stuck with me these past few months. It turns out it was one of the last to be recorded and I think that urgency comes across on the track.

8. Heart is a Drum [Beck]

I finally saw Beck in concert this summer as part of Salt Lake’s Twilight Concert Series. I’m glad I can check that one off the list. While the outdoor show was not the most enjoyable experience (pot smoke, drunk crowd), I loved Beck’s acoustic set in the middle and I’m glad I went. I highly endorse his new album, Morning Phase, especially if you liked Mutations or Sea Change.

9. Sparks [Coldplay]

For months this bass line was running through my head. I’d wake up with it playing over and over in my mind, straining to remember any other part of the song in order to place it. It would flutter on the wind of my distracted thoughts while in the car or the shower or even while listening to other music. Finally, after months and months of trying to figure it out, the answer simply floated to the surface and broke free of my subconscious. Wow. I am reminded of how amazing Coldplay’s first two albums are.

10. Fatal [Pearl Jam]

I have been meaning to include this song on my annual list for years. The melody is strong. The lyrics are poignant. The song exhibits compelling dynamics. Why they decided not to include it on Binaural baffles me. Apparently it was producer Tchad Blake’s favorite song from those sessions.

11. Lock and Key [Fictionist]

Okay. Written by my friend Robbie Connolly, “Lock and Key” may be my favorite song from 2014. The song begins as a plaintive and tender love song but soon evolves into a soul-baring introspection about relationships in general. No song has resonated as deeply with me this year, especially the line, “I fight alone against the ghost that’s haunting me.” I could say more, but why should I when Robbie says it so much better?

‘Cause there’s a part of me I keep under lock and key
I can’t let no one in, I fight alone against the ghost that’s haunting me
There’s a part of me I can’t let no one see
I can’t let no one in I keep in under lock and key

12. You Got It [Roy Orbison]

I have a clear memory of the first time I connected a name and look to Roy Orbison’s ethereal commanding voice. I was watching an SNL music retrospective, which included his performance of “Crying.” I aspire to be my wife’s best friend and to embrace this “you got it” attitude.

13. All About that (Upright) Bass [Postmodern Jukebox]

One of the more pleasant musical surprises of the year.

14. High as Hello (live) [Tweedy]

Jeff Tweedy’s touring band recorded this acoustic take in a tunnel. Spencer built his percussion out of items lying around the area, including a cardboard box and some pieces of trash with rhythmic potential. What stands out: the female backup vocals and the noodly guitar licks that roll on top of the plodding and lethargic beat.

15. Down in the Willow Garden [Billie Joe & Norah]

Heartbreaking. Achingly and tragically beautiful. Dark country or Gothic Americana at its finest.

16. Wicked Game (live) [Chris Isaak]

I play in several musical projects. In one of them we enjoy playing this song. I told you the thematic adjective of this playlist was “haunting,” right?

17. Once Upon a Dream [Lana Del Ray]

I had most of my list finished by mid-December. I am glad I waited. Santa brought Maleficent to our home. I thought the movie was pretty good, but as the credits began to roll this song swept me up in its evocative and shadowy sweetness. The old-timey radio EQ on the vocals remind me of torch singers like Edith Piaf or Amália Rodrigues.


[update] I found the 2013 notes.

1. The West Wing (Opening Theme) – W.G. Snuffy Walden 
This year Aimee and I watched the entire series of The West Wing on Netflix. We’re still trying to find the next series to watch. I miss President Bartlett.

2. Royals – Lorde 
One night after rehearsal this summer I was listening to the radio and heard this song. I was immediately struck by the lyrics and amazing harmonies. I knew it was going on my list.

3. Hey Bulldog – The Beatles 
I’ve been waiting for a good time to put this lost gem on one of my end-of-year lists. McCartney came out with a new album this year and I almost put one of his songs on, but at the last minute I didn’t. Maybe next year, Macca!

4. Paper Scratcher (acoustic) – Blind Melon 
I liked Blind Melon. Although I don’t love Shannon Hoon’s voice, I think they put out a couple of great albums.

5. Can You Get to That – Mavis Staples 
Another Mavis Staples album produced by Jeff Tweedy? Please and thank you. (By the way, that’s Jeff on guitars and his son, Spencer, on drums.)

6. Feels Like We Only Go Backwards – Tame Impala 
My friend Chris told me to check out this band because he thought I would like them. He was right.

7. Step – Vampire Weekend 
This may be my favorite album from 2013. I still need to see these guys live.

8. King of Carrot Flowers Part 1 – Neutral Milk Hotel 
I went with Chris and Doug to see Jeff Mangum play solo acoustic. He had a massive beard. He played this song. Everybody sang along. It was amazing.

9. A Certain Light – Josh Ritter 
In 2012 I took my cousin, Mark, to see Wilco. This year he invited me to see Josh Ritter. It was a great show. I have to say, however, I loved the hilarious, mustachioed opener, Zach Hickman, the bass player in Josh Ritter’s band.

10. Plastic Cup – Low 
Well, lookie here? Another song produced by Jeff Tweedy. I also had the chance to see Low in concert at Velour. They played huge shows in Europe this year so I feel it a privilege to see them at a venue that probably had only 100 people there.  

11. Long Time Gone - Billie Joe & Norah 
Can you believe how good these two sound together? I mean, I didn’t think Billie Joe could pull off the Everly Brothers convincingly, but with Norah Jones he does. And how punk rock of him to cover an album of traditional tunes from the Americana songbook?

12. Sleeping By Myself – Pearl Jam 
I have to say I don’t love PJ’s new album. But this track stood out. A shorter version also appeared on Vedder’s solo album of ukulele tunes last year.

13. Queen of the City – Joshua James 
I’ve known about Joshua James for several years now. Last year’s release, From the Top of Willamette Mountain, is an amazing album.

14. Country Feedback - R.E.M. 
Rumor has it this is Michael Stipes favorite R.E.M. song. It is also rumored that he did his vocal in one take and didn’t even really have finished lyrics. I think the song is perfect the way it is.

15. Wake Up – Mad Season 
This year saw the remastered release of Mad Season’s eponymous and only album. I distinctly remember awaking to my clock radio and hearing the debut of “River of Deceit” on X96. I could have put that song on, but I like the slow burn of “Wake Up.”

16. Spiders (Kidsmoke) – Jeff Tweedy 
Wha??? Jeff Tweedy? Again? Aimee and I caught Wilco and Bob Dylan at Usana in August. And then we saw Jeff Tweedy solo at Kingsbury Hall earlier this month. This is my favorite song that he does solo and HE PLAYED IT!!! I can die a happy man.

Happy Xmas (The Break is Over)

1. La Valse d’Amélie – Yann Tiersen

I’m not sure when or how I first heard about Amélie but I am fairly confident we checked it out from the Orem library the first time we watched it. What I love about this opening theme is the whimsy but also the underlying melancholy. Yes, whimsical melancholy. That describes this piece as well as the film, and maybe even my life.

2. Lonely Day – Phantom Planet

At some point while at Vanderbilt I read that Jason Schwartzman had played drums in a band. I picked up The Guest, which also contains the breakthrough hit, “California,” which became the theme song to the O.C.

3. No One’s Better Sake – Little Joy

If you’ve been listening to past compilations then you know I’m a fan of the Brazilian group, Los Hermanos. Rodrigo Amarante, guitarist and vocalist for that band, formed another band with The Strokes drummer Fabrizio Moretti and Binki Shapiro.  I love how the happy summer bounce of the music contrasts the lyrics that describe a failing relationship. I love this line: “When I worry about smoke instead of putting out the fire.”

4. Um Canto de Afoxé para o Bloco do Ilê (Ilê Ayê)– Caetano Veloso

I didn’t really fall in love with Caetano Veloso until our trip to Portugal in 2004. My friend Quinn had a two-CD anthology of his music that we listened to non-stop. Consequently, this song evokes images of the Portuguese countryside and not of Brazilian beaches. I love the Afro-Brazilian rhythms and a cappella choir. The song is a tribute for Bloco Carnavalesco Ilê Aiyê, one of the preeminent Afro-Brazilian samba schools in Salvador, Bahia. The name, Ilê Aiyê, is Yoruba for “casa de negros” or “house of blacks,” which refers to the fact that it is an all black samba school. Here are the lyrics with a rough English translation. (The lyrics are way cooler in Portuguese. The English make them sound trite.)

Como você é bonito de se ver (How beautiful you are to look upon)

Que beleza mais bonita de se ter (What lovely beauty to have)

Sua beleza se transforma em você (Your beauty is transformed in you)

Que maneira mais feliz de viver (What a happy way to live)

5. Hang Loose – Alabama Shakes

Chris Matteson first introduced me to this band while we were waiting for a Fictionist show. And then my friend Doug pointed me to their cover of “How Many More Times.” I was hooked. That girl can sing!

6. Djorolen – Béla Fleck & Oumou Sangare

Sometime over the summer I watched Throw Down Your Heart on Netflix. I highly recommend it. This song, in particular, won me over. The lyrics are quite poetic, even in English:

The worried songbird cries out in the forest.

The worried songbird, her thoughts go far away.

For those of us who have no father, her thoughts go out to them.

7. True Love Will Find You in the End – Wilco

Most people have never heard of outsider artist Daniel Johnston but I’m willing to bet you’ve seen his “Hi, How Are You” drawing made famous by a t-shirt Kurt Cobain wore. I recommend watching The Devil and Daniel Johnston to learn more about this brilliant yet troubled artist. Also, the compilation The Late Great Daniel Johnston:Discovered Covered serves as a fantastic introduction to his music. It also includes a disc of covers by well-known artists, such as, Death Cab for Cutie, Beck, Guster, The Flaming Lips, Vic Chesnutt, and even Tom Waits. Wilco’s cover of this beautiful song appeared as a b-side on their single, “A Shot in the Arm.”

8. Oh My Love – John Lennon

I grew up listening to The Beatles. I owned a best-of Lennon CD but for whatever reason I was unfamiliar with this magnificent song. I’m sure I had heard it before but a few years aog I (re)discovered it at a point when the message resonated with me.

9. Other Side – Pearl Jam

Jeff Ament, the bass player, wrote this song. I have no idea what it’s about but I love the music, the poetic, almost impressionistic lyrics, the chord changes, the harmonies, and the guitar tones. It’s nice to know that PJ can write and play tender tunes.

10. God – Tori Amos

When I was 16 I had a huge crush on Tori Amos and Under the Pink was under heavy rotation. It’s hard to admit that the refrain “God sometimes you just don’t come through” seems more like the rule rather than the exception. How awesome are those guitars that sound like seagulls crying?

11. You Oughta Know – Alanis Morissette

Unlike Tori, I can’t say I ever had a crush on Alanis. I’m not even sure how this song made it onto my list but you have to admit it’s catchy. And that’s Flea laying down the funky bass. Dave Navarro, who was part of the Peppers at the time, provides guitar.

12. Heart Beat – The New Electric Sound

Provo is producing some amazing bands these days. I saw these guys open up for Fictionist this summer and picked up their album. The video is pretty cool. Very cinematic.

13. Cut Me Some Slack – Paul McCartney

Paul McCartney fronting the remaining members of Nirvana? Yeah, it sounds like the punch line of a bad joke. But it happened and for whatever reason it works. I’d like to see them do some more. Just look at how happy Pat Smear is to be playing with Macca and his buddies on SNL.

14. Go Your Own Way – Fleetwood Mack

For about a week this summer I listened to nothing but Rumours. And sometimes relationships are complicated. I guess that’s all I have to say about that.

15. She’s a Rainbow – The Rolling Stones

A few weeks ago I was driving up to Salt Lake and was forced to listen to the radio since I left my iPod at home. NPR and KRCL are about the only things I can listen to on the radio these days. Nothing good was on the former so I settled on the later. This song came on and I thought, “That’s going on my list.”

16. Into Temptation – Crowded House

I was introduced to Crowded House in 1996 when I heard “Not the Girl You Think You Are” and swore that was Lennon singing. I picked up Recurring Dream: The Very Best of Crowded House and learned that I knew several of their tunes, including “Don’t Dream It’s Over.” Once, while sitting on my bed and playing “Into Temptation” on my guitar, Jacob Jenkins crept up behind me and scared the bejeebus out of me. True story.

17. Hairshirt – R.E.M.

I was recently reminded of the simple beauty of this song when Glen Hansard performed it on Jimmy Fallon. I was going to put the cover on but couldn’t find a high-quality version. But you can watch it here. I love the descending mandolin and the repeating bass line. Michael Stipe is a poet.

18. Place to Be – Nick Drake

I don’t tell too many people about Nick Drake. I like to keep his music to myself and only share it with those who will appreciate the stark beauty of his songs. I learned how to play it this fall and my life is better for it.

19. DEFCON 5 – Book on Tape Worm

Few concerts have moved me as much as the release show for this CD. Halfway through I looked over at my buddy and he had tears streaming down his cheeks. For an hour and a half we experienced heaven on earth. If you live in Utah and love experiencing the magic of live music, make an effort to see BOTW. Also, check out "Shadow Puppets."

20. Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness - The Smashing Pumpkins
I picked up Oceania and gave it two or three listens. I've tried really hard to remain faithful to the band that made some amazing music in the early and mid-90s but The Smashing Pumpkins, to me, are Billy, James, D'Arcy, and Jimmy. This year saw the remastered release of MCIS and this is one of the bonus tracks on it. I thought it a fitting end to this playlist.

I'll let Jeff Tweedy, Mavis Staples, Sean Lennon, and the Harlem Gospel Choir take us out.

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Christmas in June

[Note: The original plan was to post this list in December, 2011, as in years past. However, the server space I use to host these files was unavailable until last night when I got around to telling my friend Kevin about it. (He is the one and only Forkboy.) I didn't bother him with it earlier this year because he and his wife were in the process of adopting from China. So... better late than never, right?]

I'll be uploading individual tracks in the next day or two, but for now you can download the zip file or you can access the individual tracks here.

1. Star Trek: The Next Generation – Opening Theme 

During 2011 I watched the entire series of Star Trek: The Next Generation, thus the Captain Picard theme of this year’s playlist. I started watching ST:TNG when we lived in Vancouver, WA. I followed the whole series until it ended. I also have fond memories of watching reruns on Channel 13 at 11:00 PM after I came home from my after-school job at Broiler Works. 

2. Let Go – Everest 

Rich Robbins introduced me to this band. He said, “Hey, based on your musical tastes I think you’ll like these guys.” Those may not have been the exact words, but he was correct. They are an up-and-coming band that has gained a lot of traction recently. In fact, they have a new album coming out on June 26. When I first heard “Let Go” I knew I wanted it to be the opening track of this year’s playlist. I love the doubled drums. 

3. Sing – Travis 

I’ve been meaning to put this song on one of these compilation albums for several years but it always seemed to get cut at the last minute. Well, it finally made it! I love the banjo. I love Fran Healy’s voice. I love the lyrics. And I love the video. 

4. Codes and Keys – Death Cab for Cutie 

When I saw that Death Cab for Cutie was coming to Utah in August 2011, I immediately purchased tickets for Aimee and me. Unfortunately, the show was on the night of the first day of school for the kids and Aimee decided it wouldn’t be the best idea to go. So, I called up my friend, Chris Matteson, and invited him. He has since become one of my concert buddies. The band really impressed me with their live performance of this song. I mean, you would assume that the title track of an album would be decent, right? 

5. Down by the Water – The Decemberists 

Ah, this album was sooo much better than The Hazards of Love. And you know what makes this song great? That’s Peter Buck of R.E.M. on electric guitar. Yeah, I pretty much love everything about this song. It has harmonica, accordion, tight harmonies, an awesome drum beat and—oh yeah—did I mention Peter Buck? How could you not love this song? I was truly bummed when I realized I would be in Brazil when they came to Salt Lake. Boo. Another memory: Brazilian writer Adriana Lisboa and I totally bonded over our mutual love of The Decemberists when she visited Utah early in 2011. 

6. Überlin – R.E.M. 

Well, R.E.M. is no more. If you missed the news, they broke up. Their last album, Collapse into Now, turned out to be a great album. I highly recommend it. I chose this song because it’s a mid-tempo rocker in a minor key with an acoustic guitar and cool harmonies—classic R.E.M. 

7. Golden – The Devil Whale 

Brinton Jones fronts this band. They used to be called Palomino and I remember seeing them at Muse (now Velour) in Provo. It’s been amazing to observe Brinton grow as a songwriter and performer. I hope these guys do well. They are an amazingly talented band.  


8. Out of Time Man – Mick Harvey 
I finally got around to watching Breaking Bad. Wow. This is some of the best television I’ve ever seen: superb acting, engaging storytelling, excellent production and, in this case, mind-blowing soundtracks. When I heard this particular song, I had to pause the show and look it up. Apparently this is a cover of a Mano Negra song. 

9. Tropicalia – Beck 

This is another song I’ve been meaning to include for years. Beck pays homage to the Brazilian artists of the Tropicália movement, especially Os Mutantes. It’s no accident that the title of the album this song comes from is Mutations. Usually when American artists try to mimic this style it ends up sounding like bad elevator music. But somehow Beck pulls it off. 

10. How We Woke Up – The Moth & The Flame 

Last fall I took my friend, Doug Moore, to his first Fictionist show in Logan. One of the opening bands was another local Provo band, The Moth & The Flame. I was impressed with their set; Doug was blown away. A few weeks later, TM&TF released their debut album. I probably should have gone to their CD release show, but I didn’t. But the aforementioned Chris and I did see them play Velour a few weeks back. This is an amazing album and one of the best I’ve ever heard to come out of Utah. Check it out. 

11. Ego Tripping at the Gates of Hell – The Flaming Lips 

Speaking of Chris… Yeah, he knows The Flaming Lips. Specifically, he knows Derek Brown who has ascended the ranks in the band from all-around helper to touring guitarist to full-fledged member. Any who, Chris and I got backstage passes when The Flaming Lips came most recently. We hung out with Wayne Coyne preparing laser pointers for that evening’s show. I even got to put on a scarecrow costume and dance on stage with the band. It was an amazing night. We took plenty of pictures and video and I even got a signed set list. They didn’t play this song that night, but it is one of my favorites and I’ve listened to Yoshimi quite a bit this year. (I should also mention that two of the members of The Devil Whale somehow showed up backstage as well.)

12. Rhinoceros – The Smashing Pumpkins 

Gish is twenty years old! Holy craps!! Billy recently released remasters of Gish and Siamese Dream. I almost—almost—chose “Mayonnaise” over “Rhinoceros” but I guess I have been in more of a Gish mood lately. I have to say, the remasters sound amazing. You can really hear the improvement of sound quality in the kick drum. This song has always had a haunting softness to it, even when it turns to noise-rock at the end. 

13. Jive Talkin’ – The Bee Gees 

Don’t ask me why, but I went through a period last summer when I thought The Bee Gees were the greatest band of the 70s. But then I listened to some Zeppelin and came to my senses. BUT, this song stood out as an end-of-year contender and here it is. 

14. Band on the Run – Foo Fighters 

I feel like I should like Foo Fighters more than I do. I loved the first album. Dave Grohl seems like a decent guy. And then I saw him rock this Wings song at The White House, playing for President Obama and Sir Paul McCartney. Listen to it. Watch it. Love it. (Oh, I should mention that Doug included the original Wings version on his 2010 list.) 

15. Whole Love – Wilco 

This is the title track from Wilco’s new album. I saw them in Tempe, AZ in January. Front. Row. Seats. I went with Doug and our friends Seth and Mandi, recent Wilco converts, were also in attendance with some of their friends. They only had sixth row seats. This was my fourth time seeing the band. Today (June 23) will be my fifth time. The show is at Red Butte Gardens this evening. Anyway, I immediately loved this track from the first listen. Then I figured out how to play it on guitar. At first I thought it was in some open tuning. Nope, just Dropped-D. Love, love, love the falsetto. If this is dad rock then sign me up for more. 

16. Strangers in the Dark – Fictionist 

Remember that Fictionist show in Logan? Right. I saw them again the following week in Salt Lake with Chris and another friend, Cristina. The Devil Whale were the openers for this show. Last summer Fictionist signed with Atlantic and then released an eponymous e.p. I really like the songs on it, but I chose a track off their sophomore effort, Lasting Echo. (I have since seen them twice since that show and the lead guitarist, Robbie Connolly, moved into our ward. Yeah, we have a rock star in our ward. I’ve even jammed with him! They are currently recording their debut full-length Atlantic release with Ron Aniello (Springsteen, Wrecking Ball) here in Provo at June Audio.) 

17. She – Grand Avenue 

I’m not even sure where I heard this song but it was one of those moments when the power and beauty of the song overwhelmed me. I know nothing about this band and that’s okay. I want to maintain the mystery and elegance of this singular musical moment. 

18. Love is Blindness – The Edge 

Another album turned twenty this year—Achtung Baby!, which is easily my favorite U2 album. It was practically the soundtrack to my adolescence and it will always evoke certain emotions. The band re-released the album in a deluxe package that included four CDs of bonus tracks (remixes, demos, b-sides), a book, and two DVDs. One of the DVDs was the documentary, From the Sky Down, which included this acoustic performance. I highly recommend watching it if you have the chance. The director, Davis Guggenheim, also did It Might Get Loud with Jimmy Page, The Edge, and Jack White.

Reflections on Brazil 2011, Part 5

My bags are packed. My ride is coming in about an hour. My flight leaves at 10:30 tonight. This is my fourth trip to Brazil in nine years and my third to São Paulo. Between these four trips I have spent a combined seven months in the country. The main difference between this trip and the previous three is that some of the enchantment has worn off, which I mentioned in my first post. But, I think this is a good thing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Brazil. I love the people, the food, the language, the culture, the literature. But I now realize that Brazilians are just people. They are no more exotic than anybody else in the world. Sure, they have their cultural idiosyncrasies that set them apart from Europeans and other Latin Americans, but for the most part their desires and dreams are similar to the rest of the Western world.

Tom Jobim, the Brazilian composer and one of the innovators of bossa nova, said “O Brasil não é para principiantes” [Brazil is not for beginners]. Most people, when quoting Jobim, refer to the cultural and social complexities that Brazil has to offer. Nevertheless, is there any country or culture that is designed for beginners? I don’t think so. (Well, maybe Disneyland.) Yes, Brazil offers a variety that foreigners sometimes find challenging, but doesn’t every culture, be it national, regional, or local, pose challenges to the Other? As an Other who loves Brazil—and who will never truly become part of the Self—I must say that learning about Brazil has opened vistas of understanding of my own culture(s)—American, Utahn, Mormon.

I will always be a student of Brazil. I don’t think I will ever fully arrive at a perfect understanding of all things Brazilian, but this trip has been different. I no longer feel drawn to Brazil like some faraway place where everything is vibrant, colorful, and exciting. I don’t think we realize to what level cultural stereotypes inform our vision of another country and culture. When the average American thinks of Brazil, he thinks of soccer, beaches, bathing beauties, carnaval, urban violence and poverty. But he doesn’t think about the millions of people that get up every morning, go to work or school, eat and sleep, and dream of a better life for themselves and their children. As I walked the streets of Belo Horizonte, Curitiba, and São Paulo, I realized that the line between American and Brazilian is very thin in many regards. Of course there are gaping chasms between our two cultures (language, heritage, history), but we also share a lot in common.

And on that note, I bid adieu to Brazil. Até a próxima [until next time].

Reflections on Brazil 2011, Part 4

July 23–31: São Paulo

Rex was taking a bus to São Paulo, which left several hours earlier than my flight. I had a nice leisurely morning while he packed. We went down and had breakfast. (I should say that the breakfast buffet at Hotel Mabu is one of the best I’ve ever had.) I took my time packing and headed out to catch the airport shuttle after noon. The flight was uneventful. At baggage claim I ran into Ricardo, a fellow panel participant at the conference. He and I took the airport shuttle to Avenida Paulista and then shared a cab to Butantã. The R$45 was much better than the R$120 a cab would have cost. Flâvio was out of town but had left a set of keys for me at the administration office.

When I entered the apartment, I realized this was the bachelor’pad of a man who rarely spends any time at home. The refrigerator was bare except for a carton of milk and a Tupperware container of cake. That was it. (I should mention that since my last visit in 2009, Flâvio and Ingrid have separated and divorced. It’s sad. Flâvio spends his weekends with his kids in Sorocaba.) Any way, I quickly realized a trip to the local supermarket was in order. At least the place was clean, quiet, and had internet. Plus, I was able to get some laundry done.

The next morning I headed to church and went to sacrament meeting. I spent most of that afternoon and evening unpacking, doing more laundry, and talking to the family on Skype. I took a four-hour nap, which I think finally helped me get over my cold. Monday morning, I headed to Avenida Paulista and checked out several bookstores: Livraria Cultura, FNAC, and Martins Fontes. It was fun to finally spend most of my $1,000 book stipend from the university. I acquired a number of books I’ve wanted for several years, including the complete fiction of João Guimarães Rosa. Since I had several bags of books, I decided to take a cab back to Butantã. Flâvio came home that night and set up the wireless router, which has been great.

Rex was also in São Paulo, just a few miles from where I was staying. However, he had to finish writing a paper that weekend that he was delivering at a conference in Rio. We did get together on Tuesday to check out the town. We went to the Museu de Futebol, Museu da Língua Portuguesa, a Pinacoteca, 25 de Março, o Mercado Municipal, Praça da Sé, Liberdade, and Livraria Cultura. We saw so much in the course of several hours that my feet were killing me when I got home. But it was fun and I was able to visit a few places I had never been before.

Wednesday, I headed over to Shopping Butantã, ate lunch at Mickey D’s, watched a crappy Brazilian movie about a bank heist, and began my quest to fill several orders for Havaianas—you know, those flip-flops with the little Brazilian flag on them? Between Carrefour, Lojas Americanas, and Walmart, I was able to find about half of what friends had ordered. But, I couldn’t find any in my size. Flâvio got home from work around 9:30 and he took me to a chic Italian restaurant, a Famiglia Mancini. The four-cheese lasagna was amazing. As we drove back on Rua Augusta, we saw plenty of prostitutes and even Fofão, a transvestite / actor who had plastic surgery that disfigured his face. He’s become somewhat of a local celebrity and part of the night scene on Avenida Paulista. He’s named after a character on a kids show, who is equally horrifying.

Thursday: the main reason why I came to São Paulo in the first place. Originally, I had planned on returning to the IEB to transcribe more letters between Rosa and de Onís but shortly before my trip I learned of several MA theses that had copies of the letters. I also entered into contact with Professora Sandra Vasconcelos, the curator of the Guimarães Rosa archives. I met her briefly in Curitiba. She was one of the keynote speakers, and we agreed to meet Thursday afternoon at the IEB. We met around 2:00 pm and spoke for over an hour about my project and our mutual love of all things Rosean. I mentioned one MA thesis in particular that was a proposal to publish the letters. Sandra informed me that their library had a copy of that thesis. After our meeting, I headed over to the library, found the thesis, and put in an order to have it copied in its entirety. If I had had this thesis in 2009—or rather, the reproductions of the letters in contained—my dissertation would have been different. Now, the thesis doesn’t contain all of the letters, but it is a start. I have also contacted other professors and former graduate students who have various sections of this correspondence. My next task is to reconstitute the correspondence as much as possible. Sandra and I also talked about me trying to find the heirs of Harriet de Onís and get their permission to print the letters. That would be pretty amazing, actually.

Okay, enough of the boring academic stuff.

Thursday night, Flâvio and I went to a mall, Shopping Morumbi, in pursuit of more flip-slops. This time, we went to a Havaianas store where I was able to find some for the kids but, alas, none for me. Boo hoo. Then, we went to a nice churrascaria on the outskirts of town. I sure like Flâvio. He’s such a hard worker and a dedicated father. His divorce has been hard on him but he’s making the best of it. What I really respect is that he refrains from saying anything negative about his ex-wife. That, I feel, is a sign of great maturity since it is easy to blame the other person. He recognizes that he was just as much at fault for the dissolution of his marriage as Ingrid.

Friday, I headed back to USP to pick up the thesis. I met with my friend Matthew Layton and we had lunch. He had his wife, Cinira, are our good friends from Nashville. He is working on his doctorate in political science, focusing on Brazil. Cinira is from Manaus, Brazil. Matt and I had lunch, went to the university art museum, and spent several hours catching up. I really like him. We were home teaching companions for a few months before we moved to Utah. They become close friends of ours, we spent Thanksgiving together one year, and we always invited them to our parties.

That night I went to a session at the São Paulo temple. It was nice, although I was really tired.

Saturday morning, Matt, Cinira, and I headed into town. I decided that I would give my Havaianas quest one more chance so we went to the flagship store on Oscar Freire, the equivalent of Rodeo Drive. I don’t know why I didn’t go there first because not only did they have what I was looking for, they had anything you could ever want in a flip-flop. I could have saved a lot of time and effort if I had simply gone to their main store from the get-go. Oh well. Then, we went to Livraria Cultura, where I bought a few more books (naughty me), and then went to MASP, had lunch at the café, and checked out the exhibits. Once again, the Cândido Portinari collection was on tour elsewhere. Bummer. But, I ran into Hillary and her dad. That was fun. It was drizzling a bit when we left, but we headed to the park across the street and took a few pictures. All in all, it was an enjoyable day. It was fun to be with these two friends and spend time together building memories. Even though Cinira is Brazilian, she had only been to São Paulo once before, and only to visit the temple. Matthew had served his mission in some of the more remote areas of Minas Gerais and had never been to Sampa. It was fun playing tour guide and showing them around this huge city I’m liking more and more.

And this brings us up to today. I went to sacrament meeting and had intended to stay for the full three-hour block. But, my back was killing me so I came home to take some ibuprofen and relax a bit. The neighbors invited me over for lunch, so I should go now. And I need to call Ivan and Luciene since I think we’re going to try and get together this afternoon.

Previous Reflections on Brazil, 2009

Before I post my comments about my current trip to Sao Paulo, I thought it would be nice to read what I wrote just over two years ago. Here are the posts in case you are interested.

June 17 - 21
June 22 - 26
June 27 - 30
July 2 Part 1, Part 2
July 3 - 7
July 7

Reflections on Brazil 2011, Part 3

July 17–23: Curitiba

4:30 am came quickly, especially since I went to bed after midnight. My cab arrived at 5:00 so that I could make my 6:45 am flight. When I arrived to the airport there was a tremendous line, but luckily I was pulled to the front and made my flight by just a few minutes. My week in Curitiba flew by and I’m not sure I could reconstruct the activities of each day since I was sick for much of it. There are, however, several moments that stand out.

I arrived Sunday morning and was positive I had missed any possibility of going to a sacrament meeting. But, it turned out that not one, but two, of the receptionists at the front desk were Mormon. I quickly connected with one of them while filling out my contact information and she saw I was from Provo. In fact, she had been accepted to attend UVU this fall but the US denied her visa. Long story short, she helped me find a 2:00 pm meeting and it was nice to be in a familiar environment. I made friends with one of the members and he graciously offered me a ride back to my hotel, which was great since I was out of cash.

The main reason for my stay in Curitiba was to participate in the ABRALIC conference (Assosiação Brasileira de Literatura Comparada). At first I was concerned I picked the wrong panel, but by the end of the week I made some great contacts that bode well for future projects and collaborations. The week consisted of conference activities, buying loads of books at both the book fair and several used book stores, eating good food, and having several days of diarrhea and then an intense head cold.

On Sunday, at church, I found out one of my former students, Hillary Chamberlain, was participating in a BYU program at the LDS Employment Resources Center. I invited her and her roommate, Rachel, out to lunch that Wednesday. I had fun hearing about their experiences, especially that both of them had been proposed to by enthusiastic, if not naïve, Brazilian young men. They took me over to the employment center where I met the manager and we chatted for over an hour about the good things they are doing in Curitiba. Other than the wonderful lunch and visit, the best part of Wednesday was discovering an amazing “Sebo,” or used book store. I found a number of reasonably priced books that I have wanted to purchase for years.

It rained on Thursday. And it ruined my leather shoes. The leather stretched significantly and the sole pulled apart from the upper on both shoes near the big toe. They also stretched. But, I still wear them since the only other thing I have are some Converse All-Stars. But, they probably won’t make it back home. Sigh. Nevertheless, Paulo and Rex made an important contact: the brother of Poty Lazzarotto, the principal illustrator of Guimarães Rosa’s books. The majority of his work is archived in the apartment where he lived when he was alive. Patricia, a young woman who works for Poty’s brother, helped us comb through shelves and shelves of books, illustrations, rough drafts, and folders to find anything related to Rosa. We ended up finding a cache of sketches that eventually made it into Rosa’s posthumously published work of poetry, Magma. Nevertheless, Paulo and Rex were looking for a specific map of the sertão but we never found it. (The only version they have found is this one but it’s too small to expand.) Any way, it was fun to play literary detectives for a few hours, pouring over years of work of a talented artist. We all felt that all of this material belonged in a museum and not sitting in some empty, unused apartment. We did take pictures and maybe we’ll end up doing something with it. Who knows?

That night we ate dinner at an awesome Italian restaurant. The ambiance was perfect and I enjoyed my meal. Rachel Price, from Princeton, joined us and we had a great conversation about being new faculty members. It’s moments like these that I think I have the coolest job in the world. Well, rock star seems like it would be a cool job as well, but this is a nice backup.

(Okay, I really need to finish this up since I need to do some laundry and I’m meeting friends in half an hour.)

I presented on Friday and it went well. As I mentioned above, I was able to make some great contacts. That afternoon, Rex, Paulo, and I headed to the Oscar Niemeyer museum. It was super cool. Paulo had to take off early in order to catch his flight. Rex and I hit up two more used book stores and then had a nice, quiet evening as we packed and got ready to leave the next day.

Next stop, São Paulo!