Early Wednesday morning I took a bus to Ouro Preto. I stayed in a decent pousada but it was a bit removed from the main part (read: touristy part) of town. Ouro Preto is one of the most well preserved colonial towns in Brazil and it reminded me a lot of Portugal with the terracotta roof shingles and the numerous churches dotting the area. It really reminded me of Coimbra with all the steep hills. Let’s just say that Ouro Preto puts Coimbra’s “Quebra Costas” to shame.
I could talk about all the amazing churches and how cool it was to see Aleijadinho’s work, but what really impressed me about Ouro Preto was how nice the people were. Granted, most of the locals make a living from tourism but it felt different than other touristy towns. A employee at the craft fair, after speaking with me in Portuguese for several minutes, asked if he could practice his English. We had a lovely conversation and he told me all about his job in English. (Too bad the soapstone carving I bought from him broke on my flight from Curitiba to Sao Paulo. I hope we can glue it together.) I also met Alejandro, born in Argentina, raised in Spain, and now living in Brazil. He gave me a private tour of their art gallery and told me all about the great local artists. I realize he was trying to sell me a painting, but even after told him I couldn’t purchase anything (most paintings started at $500), he kept talking to me as if I were a valued art collector. That evening, I had dinner at Bané das Flautas and it was the perfect end to a perfect, if not tiring, day.
The next day, I saw more museums, more churches, and climbed up and down more cobblestone hills. I should have brought hiking boots and not my converse All-Stars. Even with the blister forming on my left heel, I kept trudging along. I enjoyed my eating experience as well. The truffles from Chocolate Ouro Preto were delightful, as well as the “açaí numa tigela com banana e granola” that I had at a street corner café. (I have a list of foods, snacks, and candies I have to eat every time I come to Brazil and that was one of them.)
That afternoon, Paulo, Leticia, and the kids picked me up and we headed over to Mariana, another historical city in Minas Gerais. We got a quick bite to eat and then headed to the theater to watch the Grupo Galpão's rendition of Tchekhov’s Uncle Vanya. We got there late and had to sit on the floor in the aisles, but it was well worth it. Paulo’s brother is a founding member of the acting troupe and has appeared in several movies, in addition to his stage work.
Friday morning I took another bus to a little tiny town called Cordisburgo. The town is mostly known as the birthplace of João Guimarães Rosa, the Modernist writer. Every year they have a weeklong festival dedicated to his memory. I made some great contacts, including the director of the museum, and had a wonderful time making friends, eating good food, and enjoying the festivities. The highlight for me was seeing the house where Rosa grew up. It has been converted into a museum and youth from the town, knowns as Miguilins, give the tours, reciting passages from his short stories and novels at the end of each visit. I had the pleasure of listening to part of Grande sertão: veredas when Diadorim reveals his/her real name to Riobaldo. Saturday morning I went on a “caminhada eco-literária” (ecoliterary walk) led by Brasinha and Grupo Caminhos do Sertão. Basically, a group of 160 people took buses to a farm and then walked 3 kilometers down a windy dirt road in the beautiful countryside, pausing every 10-15 minutes to listen to locals perform sections of a story, “A conversa dos bóis.” (Every year they do a different story or part of a novel and apparently the "caminhada" is different as well.) Brasinha and I became friends and I promised I would return some day. I made some other friends and was able to bum a ride back into Belo Horizonte and then take a taxi home.
Next stop, Curitiba!




